Easy Container Candles

Choosing the right container to pour candles into is half the fun. Candle holders, mason jars, and ceramic pots add much to the personality, beauty and ambiance of candles. 

A container candle is simply a candle poured directly into the container. Once you have mastered the "tricks of the trade," a world of creative possibilities opens up. There is a breathtaking array of votive candle holders and candle cups in any shop that sells candles and candle holders.

The possibilities do not end with holders designed for candles. Chandlers enjoy a wide array of possibilities such as mason jars and ceramic flower pots. As long as a container is made of a non-flammable and heat resistant material, a candle can be poured and burned safely in it.

Wood will burn and plastic will melt, but pyrex, ceramic, and stone make wonderful containers for pouring candles into. Metal is not heat resistant. While metal is a good material for candlesticks, it is not the best for container candles.

This hand-painted votive container is
perfect for a poured container candle.

Supplies Needed

• Wick clips, 
• Wire core wick, 
• Pencils (optional), 
• Paraffin Wax, 
• Candle scents, 
• Wax dye discs, 
• Containers, 
• Double boiler, 
• Kitchen thermometer, 
• Kitchen scale, 
• Measuring bowl, 
• Wooden spoon, 
• Wicking needle, 
• Old newspapers and greaseproof paper. 

Wire core wicks are the easiest to use when making container candles, because the wire center enables the wick to stand up by itself after the hot wax has been poured. Choose either zinc core wicks or paper core wicks. Paper core wicks are not as sturdy as zinc core, but the flames they create are bigger and brighter.

Transparent containers should be heated up before pouring wax into them. This prevents a sloppy finish when the wax pulls away from the glass as it cools. If hot wax is poured into a cold mason jar, the finished candle will have an uneven, sloppy look. Hot wax poured into a warm container will cool with the glass, and leave an even finish. Before pouring hot wax, place pyrex containers or mason jars on a baking tray in an oven set at 180 degrees F. Let them warm for at least twenty minutes.

Cut pieces of wick and thread each one through a wick clip. Center the wick clip in the bottom of the container, and make sure the wick is strait. If using paper core wicks, cut them longer and wrap the top around a pencil. Rest the pencil on top of the container; this will hold the wick in place.

Place your measuring bowl on the kitchen scale and set the scale to zero. Measure a pound of paraffin wax.

Heat the water in the double boiler. Put a small piece of candle dye in the top of the double boiler and allow to melt.

Add the pound of paraffin wax and heat the mixture to 199 degrees F, stirring gently with a wooden spoon. Use a kitchen thermometer to monitor the temperature of the wax. Add about an ounce of liquid scent to the pound of melted paraffin wax. Continue to stir gently with spoon.

Carefully pour the hot wax into each container, just as tall as you want the candle. Tap the sides of the container gently to release air bubbles. Center the wicks, and leave the candles to cool for an hour.

Candles poured into natural clay holders.

When you return, you will notice a well has formed in the middle of the candle. This happens because wax shrinks as it cools. Take your wicking needle or strong piece of wire (an old piece of coat hanger works nicely) and poke a hole in the middle of the well. Reheat your wax to 199 degrees F. Carefully pour the wax into the well. Fill the candle without letting hot wax seep between the candle and the inside of the glass container. Wax seepage will show and make the side of the container candle marred and ugly. This is not an issue, however, if using opaque containers such as ceramic flower pots.

Wait another hour. When you return, you may or may not want to repeat the last two steps again. When the candles are cool, you are free to decorate the outside of the container with artist's acrylic paints, or hot glue and ribbons, buttons, or mosaic tiles. You may also leave them as is for a simple and refined finish.


  

Make Scented Votive Candles

Votive candles are easy to make and known for their lovely, strong scents. This project is perfect for the beginning candle maker.

Making your own scented votive candles opens the door to create countless scent and color combinations. Votive candles are a good choice for beginners because they are easier to mold than larger candles, and making votives gives new chandlers the opportunity to experiment and learn on a small scale. What lovelier gift to give than a lovingly hand-crafted candle?

Candle Making Supplies and Candle Making Equipment

• Metal votive cups
• Wick clips
• Wire core wick
• Paraffin wax
• Candle scents
• Wax dye discs
• Double boiler
• Kitchen thermometer
• Kitchen scale
• Measuring bowl
• Wooden spoon
• Wicking needle
• Old newspapers and greaseproof paper
• Stearin or beeswax (optional)

Wire core wicks are the easiest to use when making votive candles, floating candles, and tea light candles because the wire center enables the wick to stand up by itself after the hot wax has been poured. Lead core wicks used to be popular, but have been replaced by zinc core wicks for safety concerns. There are also paper core wicks. Paper core wicks are not as sturdy as zinc core, but the flames they create are bigger and brighter. If you are new to candle making, choose zinc core wick for your votive candles. It is the easiest to work with.

Candle Making

Cut pieces of wick longer than you think you need; you can always trim them later. For each votive candle, thread a piece of wick through a wick clip. Center the wick clip in the bottom of the votive cup, and make sure your wick is standing up strait and tall in the middle of the votive cup.

Place your measuring bowl on the kitchen scale, and set the scale to zero. Measure your candle ingredients into the bowl, such as a pound of paraffin and two ounces of stearin.

Always melt wax in a double boiler. If using stearin or beeswax, melt one or two ounces first. Melt a small piece of candle dye in with it, and stir with wooden spoon. Now add a pound of paraffin wax. Bring the mixture up to 199 degrees F, and stir gently.

Add 1.5 ounces of liquid scent for every pound of paraffin. Stir gently with spoon.

Carefully pour the hot wax into each votive cup. Fill the cup, but be careful not to overflow. Tap the sides of the votive cup gently to release air bubbles. Center the wicks, and leave the candles to cool for an hour.

When you return, you will notice a well has formed in the middle of the candle. This happens because wax shrinks as it cools. Take your wicking needle or strong piece of wire (an old piece of coat hanger works nicely) and poke a hole in the middle of the well.

Reheat the remaining wax in the double boiler to 199 degrees F. Carefully pour this wax into the well in the votive candle. Try to fill the candle without letting hot wax seep between the candle and the inside of the votive cup. (If this happens, it will be difficult to remove the votive candle from the mold.) Leave for another hour.

When you return, you may or may not want to repeat the last two steps again. In any case, when the candles are cool, place them in your freezer for ten to twenty minutes. When you remove them from the freezer, the candles should slide right out of their molds.

Candle Making Tips and Advice

Many kitchen items, such as scales and double boilers, work perfectly for candle making. Please always keep candle tools and food preparation tools separate.

Wax can be stored in the double boiler or poured onto grease-proof paper for later use. Never pour hot wax down the drain, and never wash candle making tools in the dishwasher. The wax will clog.